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What Perimenopause Taught Me About My Skin – And Why I Created “La Pommade”

Carlene Higgins, Founder of CASSATT Beauty and co-host of Breaking Beauty Podcast.

After more than two decades as a beauty editor, I thought I understood skin. I’ve tested everything—from $400 moisturizers to biotech-led serums—and I’ve spoken to the world’s top dermatologists and formulators. But when I hit perimenopause, my skin changed in ways I wasn’t prepared for. It was as if the rulebook I’d lived by for 20 years no longer applied.

One of the biggest lessons? That the skin we have in our 40s and 50s needs a different kind of care. Old-school thinking said skin would become drier, but nobody told me how much more reactive it could feel. In this generation we want it all: gentler, smarter, and supportive skincare that addresses visible signs of aging while caring for the skin barrier.

That’s ultimately what inspired me to create my own formula: a calming, low-and-slow retinoid designed specifically with reactive, barrier-compromised, perimenopausal skin in mind.

Here’s what I learned—and what I needed my product to provide.

1. Yes, My Skin Got Drier

It started with dehydration. As estrogen levels dipped, so did my skin’s ability to hold on to moisture. Sebum production slowed. My glow began to fade.

What I needed: A formula that locked in hydration and supported my skin’s barrier—not stripped it. That’s why the base of my retinoid is rich and occlusive, similar to the “slugging” effect you get from petroleum, but more elegant. It creates a cushion between the skin and the actives, so the formula comforts as it works.

2. Redness and Sensitivity Took Over

One day, everything stung—vitamin C, AHA peels, even some “calming” sheet masks. I began experiencing tingling and flare-ups. According to research, over 30% of perimenopausal women report this kind of sensitivity. I was officially part of the club.

My solution: I formulated with calming ingredients first. Calendula, arnica and aloe vera to soothe, ceramides to support the barrier, and a novel, oil-based form of hyaluronic acid to hydrate. Because in this phase of life, gentleness isn’t optional—it’s essential.

3. Things Started Drooping

Collagen levels decline sharply during perimenopause. I noticed a subtle but steady softening around my jawline and cheekbones, the spring in my skin a bit less lively.

What made the cut: The retinoid in my formula is gentle enough for frequent use, helping improve the look of firmness and resilience over time. Paired with barrier-supporting actives, it works to deliver visible benefits without the usual trade-offs of peeling or irritation.

4. Pigmentation Crept In

Despite years of wearing SPF religiously, I began to notice uneven tone and “age spot” patches—classic hormonal pigmentation. I needed something that could gradually improve tone without exacerbating redness.

So I kept it balanced: No aggressive acids. Just a gentle, nightly formula that supports natural surface renewal while fortifying the skin—because for me, long-term consistency beats short-term intensity.

5. I Watched My Friends Get Acne Again

Perimenopausal breakouts are real. They’re hormonal, deeper, and sneakier than teenage acne, and I saw them crop up around my friends’ chins and jawlines. Retinoids are the gold standard, but the ones on the market were often too harsh for reactive skin.

Why I made my own: I wanted a slow-release, skin-friendly retinoid that wouldn’t compromise the skin barrier. One that works with skin in flux—not against it. So I built a non-comedogenic bio-ointment that buffers irritation without sacrificing results, delivering clearer-looking skin over time, not overnight.

Why I Created This Formula

I created a formula that locks in moisture, soothes sensitivity, and enables a slow, controlled release of retinoids. This means better tolerance, stronger barrier support, and more reliable visible results—all without the redness or peeling that often discourage women from retinoids during hormonal transitions.

Perimenopausal skin deserves products that work with its needs—not against them. This elegant retinoid ointment is my answer to that challenge. Because taking care of our skin at every stage isn’t about chasing youth. It’s about honouring where we are, and giving our skin just what it needs.

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What Perimenopause Taught Me About My Skin – And Why I Created “La Pommade”