After more than two decades as a beauty editor, I thought I understood “mature skin”. I’d tested everything—from $400 moisturizers to biotech-led serums—and I’d spoken to the world’s top dermatologists, cosmetic chemists and formulators. I’ve written that “Skincare By The Ages” story, too. But when I hit perimenopause, my skin changed in ways I couldn’t have predicted.

Standard thinking said my skin would become drier due to spiralling estrogen. That was true, but nobody told me how much more reactive it would be, which is ultimately what inspired me to create Cassatt “La Pommade” — a low-and-slow retinoid ointment designed with sensitive, barrier-compromised and perimenopausal skin in mind.

Let me explain. As a beauty editor, I am well aware that collagen and elastin levels plummet during perimenopause, and that collagen is “the structural scaffolding that holds up our skin.” Now that I’m 50, sagging has set in, I’ve formed deeper wrinkles around my eyes and gathering freckles have clustered into age spots.

Time for a dedicated retinol routine, right? Wrong.

As my skin type transitioned from combination-oily to combination-dry due to a dramatic decrease in estrogen, I experienced more transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the amount of water that passively evaporates through skin to the external air. I've since discovered that his phenomenon increases during perimenopause, too.

All of which led to my skin barrier becoming more vulnerable, and to my surprise, I started experiencing crazy skin sensitivity. Itching, sunburn like redness flareups that would last for days. I swore off anything with the word ‘acid’ attached to it for months.

Also at work? According to the American Academy of Dermatologists Association, “Around [age] 50, the pH level of our skin changes. With this change, skin becomes more sensitive, and women are more likely to develop rashes and easily irritated skin.”

My sporadic flare ups resulted in a rosacea diagnosis. Fun fact: studies suggest that the same underlying vascular-related hormonal activity that leads to perimenopausal flushing also plays a role in perimenopause-onset rosacea.

Which brings us to the ultimate skincare paradox. How do we address sudden and dramatic signs of excessive aging caused by perimenopause when we are at the exact same time more reactive to the most scientifically-proven ingredients (ie. retinoids) that we have to treat them?

Let me be clear. La Pommade is not a solution for rosacea. Rosacea is incurable and a condition that flares up and falls into and out of remission. Only once I treated my rosacea professionally with the help of my dermatologist via various topical prescriptions, laser therapies and now taking MHT (Menopausal Hormone Therapy), was I given the green light to slowly and carefully start introducing a gentle retinoid.

THAT’s when Cassatt Beauty La Pommade Retinoid Skin Ointment was born. The goal was to create a retinoid gentle enough for regular use, helping to improve the look of firmness and resilience over time. Paired with barrier-supporting actives, it works to deliver visible benefits without the usual trade-offs of peeling and irritation.

The magic is in the “ointment”, or "pommade" as they call the texture in French. The plant-based occlusive balm, comprised of non-comedogenic waxes and oils, locks in hydration to help reduce transepidermal water loss, creating a “slugging” effect that helps gentle retinyl esters penetrate, while ceramide NP and phytosterals help to support the skin’s barrier.

When a cosmetic formula is made, the founder or product developer provides the chemist with a “brief” statement of “musts”. I asked that La Pommade be pH balanced, and I’ve since learned, amongst many things, that waterless formulas inherently don’t have any pH, and don’t alter skin’s delicate pH. Here, La Pommade supports skin’s barrier again, while providing gradual retinoid delivery.

In the end, it’s all about tolerability. A retinol that you won’t use is useless. La Pommade is designed to be use-full. YOU can control the strength, by following the “gentle” or “full strength” instructions that I provided on the box, building the intensity up or down as needed.

If you’re inclined toward sensitivity, whether you’re perimenopausal or not, start one night a week, and then 2 nights the second week and 3 nights the third week. You may never need to go up to nightly use, or maybe you will. You can use it over moisturizer, or on it’s own. That’s the beauty.

Ultimately, I created a retinoid ointment that had to live up to my persnickety perimenopausal skin and high beauty editor standards. A formula that cushions as it corrects. With time and conscientious care, I’ve finally reached the delicate balance I’d been striving for, and I'm happy to share it with you.